Sunday, March 8, 2009

A Better Way to Wire an HSS Strat?

A couple of years back, I bought a new Fender Highway 1 HSS Strat. It's a great guitar, great value, great sound. But the pickups that came with it—a pair of hot Alnico-3 single coils and a high-output Atomic II humbucker—didn't inspire me. Now, a strat is an easy thing to tinker with, and so I set about changing the pickups.

To replace the too-warm stock single coils, I ordered a set of GFS 60s-70s Greybottom Non-stagger Overwounds. These were a really good deal; about $70 for the set, and they made a noticeable difference to the sound of the guitar: way more sparkle and punch, and pretty similar output.

But the Atomic II humbucker still presented a problem; it's a high-output pickup, way louder than the single-coils, and I think really optimized for driving a high-gain amp. As much as I like that, I wanted a decent clean sound too, and I found the Atomic II to be too midrangey to really be likeable clean. After reading many, many reviews, I decided on a Seymour Duncan '59 (the TB59 model that has the right string spacing for the strat, although I gather this doesn't really make much difference, and the regular SH-1 model works perfectly well too).

Right away I thought the '59 was a better match for the guitar. While still considerably louder than the single coils, it was at least closer, and the clean sound was quite a bit nicer: a better tone curve overall. But, I still wasn't happy. Even though the '59 sounded pretty good into my old tweed fender amp, I thought it sounded a little on the muddy side, especially noticable when I switched from the middle single-coil to the bridge humbucker. Reading everything I could online, I began to suspect that the problem was that the humbucker is still coming through the same 250K pots that strats come with. Gibson generally fits its HB-equipped guitars with 500K pots, which lets more of the high-end through. This is apparently especially true of the volume pots, which have an effect on the resonant peak frequency of the pickup.

So one solution would be to change the volume pot in the strat to 500K. I considered this, but reckoned Fender chose 250K pots for the strat for a reason; they might become too bright as a result. Plus, I thought it would be nice to be able to control the volume level of the humbucker separately. Why not re-wire it to have two volume controls instead of one? I would gladly trade one of the tone controls (which I almost never use) for a second volume. Then I would have a 250K volume for the single-coils and an 500K for the humbucker—which is what they were designed for.

Seems like a reasonable thing to do, but if you try Googling this, you will find almost nothing in the way of advice or wiring diagrams. The only thing I found was this article at GuitarNuts... with the caveat that it was only a diagram; they hadn't actually tried it. Seems nobody wants to go this route... two volumes on a strat. Go figure. Well, I thought I'd try it anyway.

Working from the GuitarNuts schematic, and staring at it for a very long time, I realized that the tricky thing is to isolate the two volume controls; if you try to wire it up anything like a regular strat with a 5-way switch, you end up with the two volume pots in parallel. What you need, of course, is one or the other, not both. The GuitarNuts schematic suggests wiring up the 5-way switch in a completely different way than the usual: you isolate the two halves of the switch (and for this reason they emphasize that this mod is only possible with a true 2-pole switch—I got mine from Stewart MacDonald). You use one side of the switch to bring the hot wires from the pickup in and route them to the different volume pots. You then use the other side of the switch to route the different pots separately to the jack. There is no wire that connects the two common terminals, as most strat wiring diagrams show.

After a lot of staring, a lot of soldering, a lot of testing, and a lot of mistakes, I achieved what I wanted. Here's what I came up with (click for a bigger version):




This is a little different from the GuitarNuts version; I wanted a 500K tone pot for the humbucker alone, and no tone on the single-coils at all; their version had a common tone control; I can't say if that complicates things or not, 'cause I haven't tried it.

In my diagram, you'll see the hot wires of all three pickups coming over to the one side of the switch. Then, the green wires run to the two volume pots—the common terminal leads to the 250K for the single-coils, and I'm going straight to the 500K from the humbucker. The tone control is wired in the straightforward way that a single humbucker gets wired; nothing fancy there.

The yellow wires in my diagram lead back to the other side of the switch; note that there's a jumper connecting the neck and mid poles. The common terminal on that side of the switch then provides the hot lead out to the jack (in red). So, when you set the switch in position 1 (or whatever), you're not only setting which pot the pickup connects to, but which pot the jack is connected to. This is what provides the isolation between the two: it's as if you've got two switches instead of one.

You may notice that my 5-way switch looks backwards compared to the wiring diagrams from Seymour Duncan and other sources; this confused me too until I simply figured out which were the common terminals (the ones closest to the centre) and went from there.

I've shown everything connecting to ground just to minimize the number of lines in this diagram; in the guitar, there is a common ground wire that connects all the pots, and all the pickup grounds come back to the pots too. That makes for a messy drawing, though.

As I say, this works. The 5-way switch works in the usual way with positions 1,3,5 giving you each pickup and 2 and 4 giving you B+M and M+N. But the volume controls are separate; one controls the neck and mid; the other controls the bridge. I position 2, they both work, and the sound is kind of thin; not a position I go to very often anyway.

The sound of the humbucker, though, is pretty much exactly what I was after; it sounds bright and full, losing some of the muddiness it had through the 250K volume. It sounds much better as a match for the single-coils, and I can set its volume to about 8 or 9 for a better volume balance with the other pickups. Or crank it up for full gain. Really, this achieves what I had really wanted out of a bridge humbucker, which is a fatter, fuller alternative to the usual strat bridge.

Hope this helps you.

26 comments:

  1. Thanks a lot, it's really helped for something I'm going to do (basically your configuration with the tone pots for both SCs, along with a push/pull pot for coil tapping. I don't know if it's going to work, but might as well try).

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  2. Hey Jmax, thank you so much...I was looking for a schematic just for this but like you said there isn't one...Anyways, got my soldering iron in hand, lets see how this baby' gonna turn out...thanks again...Cheers !!!

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  3. i would think that taking the tone pots
    out totally for the single coils would
    make for an overly bright sound?

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  4. Sanford, I haven't had a problem with the lack of tone pots on the singles. If anything, I like the middle being a tad brighter, and the neck sounds nice and punchy. I only ever feel the need to adjust the ton on the bridge pu.

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  5. Thanks Jmax,
    I'll give this a try as well.
    Do you think that the thin tone you get in position 2 is because of a phase problem with the singel and the humbucker? I got two stacked humbuckers as 'single' coils (SD area 58s, they're fantastic, and yes they require 250k pots :-)), so I wouldn't have that problem.
    Chris

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  6. Thanks Jmax.

    Very informative! I'm surprised that no one uses this schematic.

    Question: Is is possible to have the tone pot controlling the 2 single coils instead of the HB?
    What do I change on your diagram to accomplish this? Thanks

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  7. Yes! I've been wanting to do this to my Warmoth strat for some time. But I'm using two concentric pots so there's a tone for the singles too. I might just make up a wiring diagram and send it to you if you want to post it.

    Thanks for making this! Huge help.

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  8. great article.. is the only one i've found over the net.... I have a strat with a little '59 on the bridge and two volume pot, the 250k for middle and neck, and the 500k for the bridge, but the 250k effects the 500k volume... so it not works well... your wiring seem to be a solution... but what about the grounds..... it's a hard part to figure out ... can you help me please?

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  9. Several comments since I looked at this page a while back. Some replies:

    I don't see any reason why you couldn't do the tone pot on all three pickups, as long as it was wired in after the switch. Much of my wiring mod relies on the double-pole switch, which isolates the circuits on both sides (normal 3-day wiring doesn't really take advantage of the switch in the same way).

    The grounds are essentially one common ground... I've drawn them as symbols to minimize clutter in the diagram. But in reality, ground wires interconnect everything: pickups, switch, pots, and the ground wire that goes to the bridge. They all connect together, just like in any other guitar wiring design.

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  10. jmax this is an excellent article and just what I was looking for. Would you please give the 2 pole switch part number from Stew-Mac.
    Thank you in advance,
    RP

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  11. Just their regular CRL Lever Switch: 5-way lever switch. I think most good-quality 5-way strat switches are double-poled. Most strat wiring doesn't fully take advantage of it, that's all.

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  12. Thanks ever so much for your initial trial and error (Ugghh!) You must have the patience of Job!... and for publishing your findings. I have a Catastraster with a Dawgtown Custom Shop Alnico III in both the neck and middle, and a Dimarzio dual blade job at the bridge, which I am thinking needs a 500k volume as it does not have the top end I want. Then I thought it would be neat to have a 250k AND a 500k volume, so I started looking, and there you were! FYI: You might get rid of the thinness by reversing your hot and ground on probably the front (neck) PUP ... if that combo is thin, it might be out of phase, and IIRC, reversing the wires would put them in phase. Just a thought. Thanks again!

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  13. Couple of updates... I made some modifications, and can share the results.

    1. To the last commenter (Tonetwisters), I tried reversing the leads on the humbucker, which definitely beefs up the #4 position. BUT, I had grounding issues as a result (because the hot wire from the Duncan HB is now connected to ground)... if I touch the pickup mounting screws (grounded, natch), I get nasty noise. So I went back to the original way. Perhaps if I reversed both the single coils it would work better.

    And, I moved the tone control so it would affect all 3 pickups instead of just the bridge.... wired to the + jack lead instead of the second volume control. Works perfectly there. I used the Duncan 3-knob HB diagram as a resource: http://www.seymourduncan.com/support/wiring-diagrams/schematics.php?schematic=2h_2v_1t_3w

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  14. Hello again jmax; I have finally obtained all the components (p'ups, pots, cap, etc.) to wire my strat per your original diagram. I read your update of May 4, 2014 "And, I moved the tone control so it would affect all 3 pickups instead of just the bridge.... wired to the + jack lead instead of the second volume control. Works perfectly there." and I got confused when looking at the SD reference. I humbly request that you post your updated diagram if it has changed from the original. I apologize for any inconvenience to you as your hard work and professional input has really inspired and helped a newbie at strat wiring as I am.
    Thanks again,
    RP

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  15. Hi Jmax,

    would you be kind to post this diagram with tone control solution for all pickups?
    thnx a lot in advance
    Alex

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  16. This comment has been removed by the author.

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  17. Hi Jmax. I just tried wiring from your schematic, and being a noob, I just wanted to know: Ground. Do i gather all ground wires on one pot, and does it make any difference what pot that is? Also, when you're in the in between position of hum and middle, does the vol cut completely if you turn either one down? Mine does, but I am pretty sure I've wired it wrong, as the positions on the 5 way switch are upside down.

    Kind regards/Ronny

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  18. Can this word as a 3way switch for just the N and the M PuPs? Or maybe 4way for the extra series option and Just bringing in the B HB via 2nd Vol?

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  19. Am currently deep into another wiring task BUT eventually my next one will probably be to tackle the perennial problems associated with the HSS configuration

    I got to thinking that a best solution would be a 3way tele' type switch controlling the N and M pickups via their own 250k volume and a B HB having its own 500k volume. The whole shebang can share a master tone

    Then I thought about how I rarely bother with the Middle pickup solo AND how it would require turning the M&N volume down while fading up the Bridge Volume just to have the Humbucker solo unless there is there a way of having the selector offer the following:

    1. N
    2. N&M
    3. Neither..?

    Even better would be a 4way allowing:

    1. N&M in Series
    2. N
    3. N&M
    4. Neither!

    But IS this even possible?
    If so then I think this would be an intuitive yet very versatile set-up! Especially if the Bridge Volume was a PushPull that offered Series/Parallel

    Any Thoughts..?

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  20. jMax - cool idea. will this work with a standard 5 way switch with the 7 connectors (all on the same side of the switch)? if so can you add the numbers to the diagram? thanks

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  21. In Position 2, the outputs from the Middle and Bridge pickups get merged before they route to their respective volume controls because of the top 3 lugs on the left side of the switch are all connected in Position 2. That means that each volume control is seeing that merged signal of Middle and Bridge. So neither volume control works distinctly. Turning either one down fully would kill all volume in Position 2. Also, the same signal being loaded by two pots (so resistance has been doubled) would explain the thinness described earlier in the article.

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  22. I am not understanding the comment in the article that the Common terminals of the switch are the lugs closest to the middle. No, they are at either end of the switch. For example, on the right side of the switch, if the Common was not the last lug on the bottom, then there would be silence in all positions except either the last two or first two positions of the switch.

    The statement in the article that proceeds the one about the Common lugs being the middle ones, is correct: the switch in this diagram has been wired in reverse/backwards fashion

    Also, it would be helpful to readers to have a note added near the beginning that this wiring scheme does not support an autosplit of the humbucker in Position 2. That would be a no-go for many users of an HSS Strat.

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  23. This diagram is complete crap and cost me a 5 way switch.

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  24. it works. i also added switch for combining neck and bridge and vice versa so volumes adjust the mix. happy with it, used 1 meg

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  25. I haven't looked at this page in years; interesting that it's still gathering comments.

    The diagram isn't crap; it's what's in my guitar, and has been (except for the moved tone control) for a decade. It sounds like some other folks have made this work (and better) too.

    The last few comments are a little over my head. The representation of 5-way switches on circuit diagrams confuses me a bit; I admit when I wired this up I did a lot of trial and error before I figured out what to do with the 5-way switch. What is in the diagram above is what worked with my circa-2009 Switchcraft 5-way selector (I notice that link doesn't work anymore; StewMac may sell a slightly different 2-pole switch today).

    The comments about the trouble with position 2 make general sense to me I like the idea of a switch that combines them, but I don't have a clear idea how that would work... a diagram would be nice.

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